Day 15: Vacation – Last day in Firenze

A bit of a leisurely morning before we hopped back on the tour bus to finish the tour that we got sidetracked on the day prior.  I mean, we saw stores and boutiques and gelato and stuff … lots and lots of glorious stuff.  Hmmm … anyway, we got back on the bus.

It was a cooler day with drizzle, so we had every intention of just staying aboard for the entire tour.   However, we came to a sweet little stop on the tour – Piazza Mino da Fiesole, in the beautiful village of Fiesole.  Fiesole  is a metropolitan city in the Tuscany region, Italy. A favorite destination of many writers who have been attracted to Fiesole including Giovanni Boccaccio, John Milton, Percy Shelley, Alexandre Dumas, George Eliot, Charles Dickens, Mark Twain and Gertrude Stein. Fiesole was also a favorite place of Leonardo da Vinci who, reportedly, experimented with attempts at flight off its hills.  (the Los Angeles Times)

Fiesole has become the go-to area to live of the very affluent of Italy.  It is known for grand gardens and exquisite residences.   This little gem is on the market for 20 million Euros.  Today that is only $22,334,880. USD.  A Bargain!

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We took a few moments to enjoy a traditional Toscana lunch of burger and homemade chips.  We were ready for that after 14 days – trust me!

Afterwards, we wanted to see more of the beautiful countryside, but the rain was drizzling and the wind was blowing really cold,   We got a couple of shots of the clock tower of the Cathedral of Fiesole (Il Duomo),  and the town.  There are very few shops – maybe a couple cafes – not much more, other than the stunning gardens and homes.

Took a catnap on the bus ride “home” and spent time packing and doing laundry and getting ready to take the train to Rome in the morning.

DAYS 12 – 15 VACATION: FIRENZE – continued

Our 14th vacation day!  We decided on the Hop On – Hop Off tour bus option, where we get on and off at 30 different points of interest.  It turned out to be the perfect thing to do.  Image result for Firenze hon on hop off bus

First stop – Piazzale Michelangelo.  Beautiful panoramic views,  replica of David and souvenir shopping for family.  Listed as one of the best places to see Florence from above, it is “not just a perfect photo opportunity, but a moment of wonder. You are looking at the city that gave birth to incredible artists, amazing scientists and an enthralling history of discovery and power that has filled novels and movie theaters“.  It certainly did not disappoint.  Absolutely took my breath away.

 

 

 

 

 

Hopped back on the tour bus after a few hours and hopped off at the beginning of the bridge to begin the long walk to the Ponte Vecchio. “Built very close to the Roman crossing, the Ponte Vecchio, or Old Bridge, was the only bridge across the Arno in Florence until 1218. The current bridge was rebuilt after a flood in 1345. During World War II it was the only bridge across the Arno that the fleeing Germans did not destroy. Instead they blocked access by demolishing the medieval buildings on each side. On November 4, 1966, the bridge miraculously withstood the tremendous weight of water and silt when the Arno once again burst its banks.”  The history is rich, but let us not ignore the world class shopping!  And, thank goodness, because since we bought so many family gifts, we had to stop in a luggage shop and buy two more suitcases to carry them all home.

After perusing and purchasing our way through several blocks in the shopping district, we found the best gelato in the entire wide world … probably. 

Half salted caramel and the other half the darkest chocolate ever known to man – er – woman.   Then, the long walk over the bridge and down to the tour bus stop, wheeling our newly purchased luggage behind us.  We were stopped before we could take one step to board the tour bus, “Nessun bagaglio è permesso sull’autobus.  Devi aspettare l’autobus della città.”  We could not bring the luggage on to the tour bus.  We needed to await the city bus.  And, so we did.

Barely had enough energy to walk from the bus stop to our home base.  Joyfully exhausted.

Days 12 – 15 Vacation: Firenze!

“Sure, Florence is touristy. But where else can you stroll the same pedestrian streets walked by Michelangelo, Leonardo, and Botticelli while savoring the world’s best gelato?” – unknown source

If Tuscany is the quiet diva of Italy, then Firenze is most certainly the diamond! A brilliant way to end a vacation in Italy. Florence. Firenze to the locals. A mesmerizing bouquet of art, architecture and rich history. Words, pictures – nothing can do this city justice. You have to experience it with your own eyes and heart. And four days was not even a speck of enough time to appreciate this diamond.

Day 12: Our first evening was spent waiting for the owner of the rental property to arrive (almost an hour late) and then listening to her go over each and every nuance of the apartment in the greatest of detail … “this is a butter knife … this is a cake knife …) She allotted us ONE roll of toilet paper for four days; 2 tiny trash can liners for a tiny trash receptacle and two dishwashing tablets. Kind of funny now. But then – not so much.

our little neighborhood for 4 days …

DAY 13: The following day we venture out from the little apartment (also Ikea-ized) and found a neighborhood restaurant – gorgeous inside and fun to listen and watch the locals there for lunch, sharing long tables and sitting family style. Ristorante Alla Vecchia Bettola Firenze.

highly recommend

Then we decide to search out the Boboli Gardens, a park in Florence, Italy, that is home to a collection of sculptures dating from the 16th through the 18th centuries, with some Roman antiquities.  We walked and walked and walked some more. Making our way past a tall and winding stone wall – sure that the next turn would be an opening to the gardens. ‘Til we came upon this beauty – Piazzale di Porta Romana.

Note: A plaque on the external wall claims the gate was erected in 1327. Originally and as demonstrated on the 1584 Map by Stefano Buonsignori the gate had a lower outer wall with a small courtyard dominated by the larger gate we see today. And through that entrance is residential mixed with retail. And it is just this kind of place that makes my heart flutter! ! This is where, walking through that ancient gate, you leave the modern Florence and enter historic Firenze.

After absorbing the sounds and sights of this beauty, we made a run to the local grocery store and then “home” to make dinner and relax with a little sister time. Exhaustion has indeed set in!

  • to be continued …

DAYS 9 thru 11 – VACATION

“My idea of heaven still is to drive the gravel farm roads of Umbria and Tuscany, very pleasantly lost.” 
― Frances Mayes, Under the Tuscan Sun

Toscana … Tuscany … whatever you call it, this region of Italy is stunningly dressed in every kind of green you can imagine. From her head to her toes, she is the quiet diva of Italy. After the hectic rush of the cities, she sneaks up on your soul and you instantly feel at home. Your body begins to relax and your mind is calm. Ah yes. THIS is the stuff dreams are made of. For mere dollars, you can buy a dilapidated home if you promise to rebuild/restore it within a designated time frame. Do not think I wasn’t tempted. There were times when the daydreams took over and I was outside of myself, cheerfully painting and hammering away.

Our VRBO was a gorgeous home from top to bottom. Beautiful natural gardens filled in with roses and statues. Little places tucked away for reading and taking photos, giving us little or no reason to roam too far!

Leaving Umbria in the beautiful region of Toscana, left me rather sad. It was one of the only times I have completely slept through the night since the death of my husband. I was rested. I was calm. I felt my heart and soul at peace. I wanted it to last. But after three days in sheer paradise, it was time to move on. I reluctantly succumbed to my sister’s repeated request to get into the car. And we were off to Florence – Firenze!

Day 8 Vacation in Capri, Italy

“There was a magical timelessness to Capri A special atmosphere, and a sense of history.” 
― Kitty Pilgrim, Summer of Fire

What can I say except that Capri was everything I expected and more. A gorgeous view as the ferry slowly made it’s way to the isle. The smell of the water and the sea air was fairy-tale like. And of course … the shopping. It’s not a myth, people. The shopping there is the stuff of which shopping dreams are made. The famous Capri watches (my new one has a pink band and crystals for each number) … the designer handbags (my Valentino bag is pink with three other shades of pink on the side insets and is yummy) … as well as the obligatory I need to buy a tote bag from every place I have ever been adorable canvas tote. Maybe two.

The sweet smell of the water just makes the shopping and the sightseeing and the food all the better. One of the most relaxing days ever. Well, other than the fact that the tickets we bought on line for 115 Euros were not valid and the Ferry Port worker had never seen anything like them before. So, we got to buy more tickets and cross our fingers for a refund!

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it is no wonder why Jackie Kennedy loved Capri so much.

DAY 6 and 7 Vacation – from Rome to Napoli

Here we are – a second train on our way to Napoli, Italy!   But first, feast your eyes on this two-story glass wall bookstore in Roma Termini!  Amazing.  I could have spent oh so many hours there.  Give me a comfy chair and a good book – the kind with pages with that new book smell.  And I am good to go!2019 04 19 LEAVING ROME FOR NAPOLI A  But, it was time to board the train as we head to Napoli.  2019 04 19 LEAVING ROME FOR NAPOLI D

A quote from an American living in Italy … “I like to describe Naples as chaos incarnate. It has a life of its own, that seems to head in every direction at once, but then comes together into a sort of untouchable harmony that energizes your soul.”

As the driver begins our journey into Napoli, so begins the carefully orchestrated choreography of the automobiles, scooters and pedestrians.  Clearly the autos are the Prima Ballerinas, always taking center stage and everyone and everything else, following their lead.  An auto gives a friendly beep beep to remind a scooter that while they are indeed the soloists in the performance of this very narrow stage, they are not to interfere with the auto.  However, scooters glide in and out of the dance:  in front of and up the side and the auto drivers never flinch.  No fingers thrust out the window. No cursing at the offending scooter.  They all seem just to take it in stride.  Streets are extremely narrow here and it is not uncommon to see a  car drive up on the edge of a sidewalk so as not to have to stop.  It is in the unwritten rules of the road.  Pedestrians are, to put it gently,  the Corps de Ballet and therefore must choose their positions wisely.  As the owner of the apartment we rented told us, “signs in Napoli are just a suggestion”.A not so friendly BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP clearly advises the autos or scooters or pedestrians that the stream of participants need to move – and need to move NOW.  That doesn’t happen very often as it seems that almost all know their place and stay in their positions. Image result for traffic in napoliVery Smart, these citizens of Napoli.  Very smart, indeed.

The neighborhood of the VRBO that we rented in Napoli was a bit on the sketchy side, if you get my meaning.  On second thought, we should have rented in the historic district as it was more up our alley!  But, the apartment itself was cute and had some really nice features.  We would not have gone out at night alone – but we really didn’t plan on that anyway.

In stark contrast, the Historic District of Naples is enchanting.  Enjoy the  architecture and the sites.  I only wish I could give you the sounds of the people in the piazza and smells emanating from the many pasticcerias.   I shall surely miss this chaotic, picturesque and crowded city of Napoli.  I rather liked it.  Napoli has personality.  Napoli is spunky.  I like spunk!

(full disclosure – the first 4 photos are from the Internet of some of the sites we saw.  My photos did not turn out as we visited the first time in the evening)

Robyn to the rescue with photos from her camera …

tomorrow …Capri.

Day 4 – “Rome is the city of echoes, the city of illusions, and the city of yearning.”

Someone once wrote;

Sometimes, you just can’t find the right words to describe Rome.

The beauty of the Eternal City, the chaos, the mismatch of elegance and decay that is around every corner.

So very true.  Even the decaying buildings are magnificent in their own right.  The juxtaposition of the graffiti against the stunning gardens.  Tiny ristorantes tucked into corners of the city across the crowded road from five star eateries.  And so it goes.

Before our day really begins, we engage in a bit of goofiness – I show off a Christmas present blouse from Isabel & Ricky, while Robyn models her teeny tiny coffee pot, in the Price is Right style.  (Note the adorable orange refrigerator door!)

 

This was truly a blissfully exhausting day of sightseeing.  Again – Juxtaposition.

First stop was finding tickets to the hop-on hop-off bus tour.  We walk and walk and walk some more, until we locate the ticket vendors and find the bus stop! Image result for HOP ON HOP OFF BUS Rome

We began the tour with the amazing coliseum.  The Colosseum or Coliseum, also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, is an oval amphitheatre in the centre of the city of Rome, Italy. Built of travertine, tuff, and brick-faced concrete, it is the largest amphitheatre ever built. The Colosseum is situated just east of the Roman Forum.

And now we continue our tour on to Vatican City.  We keep seeing these initials on landmarks and light posts, and so we just had to research …  2019 04 17 D        SPQR (Latin: Senātus Populusque Rōmānus, “The Roman Senate and People”, or more freely as “The Senate and People of Rome”; Classical Latin: [sɛˈnaː.tʊs pɔpʊˈlʊs.kᶣɛ roːˈmaː.nʊs]) refers to the government of the ancient Roman Republic.    2019 04 17 E

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A little surprised to see all of the vendors pedaling their wares all along the walk inside the Vatican City.   I would have understood more if there had been rosaries, crosses and things like that.  Instead there were little cars that transformed into other things, stuffed animals, little race car toys and many other unrelated items.  I just felt there should have been a little more respect for the area.  And, did I mention the 1€ to use the toilette?  All over Italy you pay to potty.  The things we take for granted in the USA.

Vatican City, in full State of the Vatican City, Italian Stato della Città del Vaticano, ecclesiastical state, seat of the Roman Catholic Church, and an enclave in Rome, situated on the west bank of the Tiber River. Vatican City is the world’s smallest fully independent nation-state.

2019 04 17 VSuch a beautiful day In Roma.  The sights and sounds are almost too much for the mind to absorb.  But in the end, that is exactly what we did – we absorbed!

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Day 3 (yes – AGAIN!!) of Vacation

Our first non hotel stay is Largo Domus Leopardi 12.  It is a private apartment with a delightfully orange kitchen (I highly suspect an Ikea influence here) and a charming living area.  It overlooks a common courtyard shared by apartment owners as well as nearby connected restaurants.  Very comfortable and authentically decorated.  Martina met us at the apartment to show us how things worked and where things were.

While out wandering a bit, Robyn spied a church at the end of the street, so we thought we should take a look – and I am thrilled that we did.  Behold the Church of Saint Eusebio on the Esquiline Hill.  I am certain that the photos do it no justice as it is a magnificent spectacle of architecture and spirituality.

 (The photo on the left – second from the top –  is actually of the ceiling)

Such a beautiful and serene place.

Architecture in Rome is a wonder to behold.

       

In ancient Rome, the domus (plural domūs, genitive domūs or domī) was the type of house occupied by the upper classes and some wealthy freedmen during the Republican and Imperial eras. It was found in almost all the major cities throughout the Roman territories.

It is not uncommon to see flower and plant shops along sidewalks and streets on almost every block of business areas.   The congestion of people, cars, scooters and shops is the way of life in Rome.  People seem to thrive here and I can certainly see why.  There are so many treats to behold and conversations to witness – even if you cannot understand the words; you can certainly understand the sentiment.  The people of Italy are expressive!

We walked around sight seeing on our way to dinner – where the locals go to eat –  snapping a photo here or there.  Just two Colorado girls taking in the sights.  Enjoy our little photo exposé Italia style!  2019 04 16 Z22

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Day 3 (continued) Vacation: On the Road Again!

We awake to a beautiful morning in Florence and are ready for our morning train ride into Roma!   The train terminal is also the bus terminal and a very busy (and a tad bit confusing) place.  After successfully determining our line, we board the Trenitalia

loading our own very heavy luggage and taking our seats.  Huge windows allow for all the sightseeing oohs and aahs of leaving the city and making our way to the countryside and luscious landscapes connecting Florence to Rome.

The train ride was not long – just an hour or so (at 186 mph) to take in the countryside and for Robyn to experience a train ride – albeit a high-speed train ride!  We arrived in Rome at another combo terminal and make our way to the McDonald’s inside – and yes, they ARE everywhere – where a private driver was holding the sign with my sister’s name.  He spoke hardly any English, but went right to work taking the heaviest of luggage with a smile and nod and “follow me”.  He left us at a curbside loading zone and retrieved his Mercedes in no time flat.  He knew exactly where we were going and dropped us as close as possible.  Exceptional.

We wheeled our luggage past a ristorante and just beyond a pizzeria was the door leading to our apartment for 3 nights.  The owner met us and took just Robyn and one suitcase up to the 4th floor apartment in what has to be the world’s smallest elevator.  When the elevator comes to a stop, the doors open to yet another steel type door that you then push open to exit.   Very quaint.   I came up in the elevator on the second run.  Gave us a little chuckle.

It was disheartening to see Rome with graffiti in every possible space – almost surreal.  In between businesses, the doors were a conglomeration of graffiti.  Surprisingly, it seems as though the “artists” do not deface churches or fences surrounding churches or business establishments.  But any vacant door or building becomes a public canvas it seems.  I wondered why there was so much graffiti and in a city of such holiness.  So, I (what else?) googled it!

ROME (AFP) – Scribbling emotions on walls has been a tradition in Rome going back thousands of years and even the word “graffiti” was first used for markings found in the ruins of Pompeii.  The modern version could be the scrawls seen in maternity wards in the Italian capital: “Get a move on, auntie’s waiting!”, “Chiara is born!”, “Welcome little Mattia!”.  From wealthy neighbourhoods in the city’s north to working class suburbs in the south, Romans are not shy about scrawling on walls – often with phrases in local dialect.

Not my cup of tea, but hey, I am only a tourist.

I love that city dwellers can find any place to have their garden.   Balconies, rooftops and window planters are common sights here.  I couldn’t get enough of them. 

Tiny little cars and scooters dot the streets 3 rows wide and all parked within mere inches of the next.  I seriously do not know how they move their vehicles in and out while in between each other.  There seems to be very little in the way of street markings and yet everyone seems to know how to navigate the road, often moving within an inch or two to skirt past a scooter or bus and turning this way and that.  It is a bit of a ride in a taxi that can really make you question if you should have used the facilities before tempting fate!

(to be continued)

DAY 2 Fade to Day 3 Vacation

My nephew, Julian with Alina in tow, arrived perfectly on time to shuttle his mother and Auntie to the airport. Alina was sweet and playful as usual and Julian was ready with open arms and comforting hugs. Delta is in a newer part of the airport in Austin as they are expanding quite a bit. I sat down to get a bit of accounting done and before I knew it, we were ready to board the first leg of our flight: Priority business class from Austin to Atlanta. Newer plane. Exceptional service. And just as my sweet friend, Isabel said – endless mimosas and warm nuts. I just had orange juice, but I COULD have had endless mimosas had I wanted.

In flight, day 2 just sort of morphed into day 3 of vacation and we began our second leg (for Robyn – third leg for me!) in the beautiful Delta One airbus bed cubicles. Not only a semi-private cubicle, but a clean comforter, fluffy pillow and possibly the best peppered beef dinner I have ever had followed by pure vanilla ice cream topped with caramel and chocolate sauce. Just as I told the flight attendant, I never fathomed that the phrase; “best dinner ever” and “I think I ate too much” would roll out of my mouth on an airline.2019 04 14 B.jpg

After dinner, a bit of accounting in my cozy cubicle 4B and snuggled up in my fluffy comforter and pillow to catch a bit of much needed sleep here and there mixed with my Amazon music in my headphones, the time passed relatively easy and comfortably for an 8+ hour flight. Just as we were landing in Paris, the sun  was starting to rise.  We retrieved our luggage (and way too much of it by the way) then made our way to the taxi area.  We noticed several polizia with automatic weapons across their chests and ready at a moment’s notice.  Our taxi driver explained that the Italian President Sergio Mattarella was visiting Florence for the 500th anniversary of the death of Davinci. Hence the additional security.  Good to know!Checked into the beautiful AC Hotel Firenze (the Marriott), relaxed with a hot shower and a nap before heading out for dinner.  We walked to a Ristorante Pizzeria – very authentic.  Cute and homey decor. Ordered two different entrees (one was wood fired pizza – Yummy!) so we could share and taste.  Since dinner hours begin at 7:30pm and then  takes three hours, we were more than ready for a little Law and Order in Italian and a regular night’s rest!

DAY 1 Vacation

Surprising how quickly 5 a.m. comes when you finally get to sleep around 2 a.m.   What is even more surprising is that I feel awake enough to finish the last-minute packing and alert enough to call Mr. Uber.  The line at Tucson International was hella long – one of my bags was overweight by 1.5 pounds.  Because I am too cheap (and too SANE) to pay $100 overweight fee, I wrestled the plastic protective cover from my huge bag, removing the packing cube which is labeled “BEACH”, wrestled the big bag cover back on the huge piece of luggage and proceeded to go thru the entire routine with the normal sized bag. Placing the packing cube (yes, everything IS in packing cubes and properly labeled BEACH, BOOBIES, BOOTIE, FOOTIES – I think you get the idea) in the normal sized bag only to find that I had to expand that bag and the protective cover would no longer fit;  all the while holding up the very long line.  Yes yes.  I am one of those people – at least for today.

The best laid plans … 

Going thru security was a breeze because I am now a priority one known traveler (courtesy of Homeland Security, 45 minutes of questioning and $75)!  When I got my approval letter in the mail, I kinda felt a little like Steve Martin …

“The new phone book’s here… I’m a somebody now.”

And now ready to board in Phoenix to arrive in Austin just in time for my sister, Robyn to question my choice of taking eight pairs of shoes and my great niece, Alina to entertain me for the evening.  And speaking of which, I find this at the airport!

 

nice.

Followed up by sweet little grand (great?) niece, Alina.

Precious.